Montenegro occupies a fascinating global position, between east and west, and its history has been dramatic, as well as devastating. This convergence of eastern and western cultures has led to a richly layered national identity and culture. And you'll see this in every town or city, with a smattering of catholic spires, richly decorated Orthodox churches, minarets from Mosques and even the odd Roman villa here or there.

What to expect

Since the war and the break up of Yugoslavia, visitor numbers have started growing, and the infrastructure has really improved. There are lots of new and refurbished roads, which seriously improve travel times. So it's now very easy to explore more than just the sparkling, rocky coastline.

The number and quality of hotels, has significantly improved as well, so now is a great time to visit.

Top spots

Podgorica is the capital city, a pleasant place with lots of green space, excellent galleries and bars. While Cetinje is the historic capital, nowadays it's a kind of over-grown village where ambassadors' mansions and princely palaces sit alongside relatively modest homes. This is a great place to come if you want to uncover more of Montenegro's chequered past.

If you want to tick all Montenegro's boxes visit Kotor, a true beauty, perfectly positioned for dramatic effect between a rim of mountains and a crystal clear bay, and set on stone fortifications begun in the 9th Century. It ticks the beach box, the historic box and the scenic box, and the labyrinth of the old town, with a wealth of wonderful churches, cafes and restaurants and boutiques, is Heritage Listed. Another good spot on the Bay of Kotor is Herceg Novi, with obligatory charming old town and fabulous views.

If you're looking for a timeless escape, you'll find one just along the coast from Kotor. Perast is an elegantly fading pearl of a town with orange rooftops dotted with the romantic domes and cupolas of its 16 churches and 17 palaces - for a population of only about 500. There's only one main street, running down the hill to the narrow promenade along the bay, so the beauty is even more concentrated. You'll find Venetian looking monuments sprouting bougainvillea in amongst all this, as well as date trees and wild figs, scenting the air.

Follow the coast to the south of Kotor and you'll get to Sveti Stefan. It's a stunning little place and worth a visit, even if just for a night.

If you want to really escape from everything, head into the mountainous interior and you'll easily be able to hike or bike yourself into total privacy.

What not to miss

• * If you're in Kotor then be sure to wander around the historic city walls, which are not only architecturally impressive but also offer wonderful views of the surrounding countryside. They will lead you high above the town to St John's fortress from where you can see for miles.
• * Spend a day at the Tara River Canyon, Europe's deepest canyon and the second deepest in the world. Hike around the area or go rafting down the river if you fancy something a little more action-packed.
• * Take a trip to Lake Skadar. It's the largest lake in Southern Europe and lies on Montenegro's border with Albania. The Montenegran side is National Park and plays host to large bird population. It is simply stunning and well worth a day away from the coast.
• * Go swimming in the picturesque Blue Grotto in Herceg Novi, with its crystal clear water and wonderful natural caves. Be sure to bring along a camera!

The best places to stay in Montenegro are hugely popular during July and August. So if you want to visit during peak season, book well ahead. Otherwise, visit during quieter months when the weather is still good and the streets much emptier!